Tuesday, August 2, 2011

My quest for the perfect fitting pant!

I can’t buy ready made pants or jeans that fit, plus I hate shopping and don't buy clothes I know I can make. Store bought pants are most always too low in the back plus the waist bands never fit and I have to alter them. I have tried many pants patterns with some success but the best fit was always the patterns with faced waists instead of waist bands. I want pants that fit with a waist band darn it! So my quest begins.
3 patterns used in creating prototype pattern

I have a shorts pattern Mc Calls 5391 that fits really well except for the waist band. It is straight and never fits right across the back, so I think to myself “If I have a curved waist band that I know fits and modify it to the shorts I might just get the perfect pant.” I dug through my stash of patterns (most if which have never been opened) and found a Simplicity from 2004 with a side zip (not exactly what I had in mind but they have a nice curved waist band) so I gave it a trial run on some really uncomfortable poly. Crotch was too low in front with some extra room for parts I don’t have, but an easy fix, best part was the waist band fit perfect. I took the time to fix the front crotch piece by comparing the front piece to my shorts piece that fits in the crotch. So, next time I want side zip trousers the pattern is already adjusted. Wow, I can’t believe I was thinking ahead.
raised up the front crotch line to match the pattern that fits
 One thing I didn’t really like about the shorts was the slant front pockets. These always seem to gap and best fix for that is sew them shut, but I want functioning pockets. More modifications take place. I take a jeans pattern that has the more curved jean type front pockets. I changed the top of the shorts front to match that of the jeans pattern and made a new side front piece that will fit in behind to finish out the top to the side seam and also copied the pocket lining from the jeans pattern.
new front piece with side front and pocket lining on the left

 I am skipping the redesign of the waist band until I get to the point of putting it in, so I can take measurements and make it the right length. Next step-make a muslin. I don't usally do this, I usually just dive right in and cut things out of fabric I might actually wear. In this case I just want to get an idea if this is all going to work together, so I will make a practice pair out of an old sheet. Now, if they turn out perfect I'll wish they were more suitable for public viewing, at least the sheet is off white. Check back for my progress...

No comments:

Post a Comment